The denim trend was started somewhere around 2007 in which Nudie’s wear-and-tear campaign were first launched. The trend even evolved throughout the years, from only the jeans to the whole work-wear inspired outfit. The denim culture seems to be a bit complex for most people, but it is really not. If you have a slight bit interest in it and want to hop on the bandwagon, it is not too late. With the help from Darahkubiru and INDIGO – Indonesia Denim Group, we covered the basic of denim for you, from the tiny details and components to the styling guide in the series of our denim-related article. Scroll down to start your denim journey.

Denim


A sturdy cotton twill consists of warp and weft yarn weaved together. Traditionally, only the warp is dyed with indigo, which is why denim is blue on the outside and white on the inside. The name comes from the name of a sturdy fabric called “Serge de Nimes”, initially made in Nimes, France.

Jeans



Jeans are pants made with denim or dungaree. Denim is highly durable, and that is why Jacob W. Davis and Levi Strauss teamed up to create an item that caters the need for long lasting clothing. Jeans are named after the city of Gênes (French for Genoa) and it featured 5 pockets, created in 1871 and patented in 1873.

Rivets



A small circular object usually made of copper that you find at the stress points of pocket corners and fly. The rivets in the backpocket were found disruptive because it ruins the horse saddle, so Levi’s made a hidden rivets.

Coin Pocket



Small pocket that is halfway tucked inside the right front pocket. It was originally intended to hold a pocket watch. The pocket appears on the oldest pair of jeans in the Levi’s archives, which date to about 1879.

Back Yoke



The “V” shaped pattern piece which forms part of a garment located below the waistband at the back of the jeans. This is what usually distinguishes jeans from other kinds of pants and trousers.

Belt Loop



At first, people use cinchback and suspender to fasten their waistband. As wearers started to prefer belts more, cinchback was scrapped and belt loops were added as a way to keep the belt in place.

Selvedge Denim



A traditional woven material on narrow shuttle looms, creating the tight “self-edge.” Because it’s produced at slow speed, selvedge denim is more durable.

Bartack



A method of stitching that reinforces points of strain, usually found at the top corners of the back pockets, the base of the fly, buttonholes, and belt loops.

Chainstitch



The traditional stitch used to hem jeans and creates a roping effect. It requires special sewing machine, most notably The Union Special 43200G. The downside is the stitching is pretty easy to unravel.

Arcuate



The decorative stitchings on the back pockets of jeans as a differentiator. It was originated from the very first Levi’s jeans and became synonymous with brand by 1900.

Pocket Lining



The fabric used to make the front pockets of jeans. People usually used a unique fabric for it and also customized it with printed design or even a journal for the wearer.

Pocket Flasher



A paper placed in the backpocket of jeans and used as a tool to show the brand and the jeans’ themes, characteristics and details.

Pocket Tab



Pocket tab was added to the side of the backpocket of every pair of Levi’s from 1936 to help differentiate it from the others. Many brands have created their own tab and placed it wherever they want.

Button



For true denim aficionados, the real benefit of the button is an aesthetic and historical reason. Buttons will actually create fades on the fly because of their bulk, a desirable result for fade fanatics.

Zipper Fly



Levi’s added a zipper fly to jeans in 1947. Zipper is way more fast and easier to use than buttons but it is also easier to break and jammed.

Leather Patch



Patch of leather used to brand a pair of jeans. In the ’50s, there were heavy competitions between denim brands, therefore Levi’s removed the leather patch and replaced it with a paper to lower the production cost.

Inseam



The inner part of the leg section, measured from the crotch to the leg opening.

Leg Opening/LO



A term used to describe the opening of the leg of the jeans.

Ounce/Oz



A unit of measurement used to weigh denim. 1 ounce equals 28.35 grams. Higher oz will give a thicker, heavier denim.

Sanforization


A treatment that stabilizes the fabric before it is cut and keeps it from shrinking after it has been washed. Unsanforized denim means that the denim is untreated and you have to soak it first before you wear it. Sanforized denim usually has a lighter color, while unsanforized denim feels much stiffer.

As you can see, a single pair of jeans holds so many components and in every single component has an interesting history behind it. We certainly believe this article would make denim culture easier to comprehend. Stick around for our next denim-related article where we will dig deeper into the fun aspect of dry denim: the fades.

Denim 101: The Anatomy of Jeans
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